In the relationship between springs there is quite a bit of give and take as it were. While it’s true that the rear spring not only holds the top end together, the crucial resistances and lift back to contact is apparent. Tension will build between these two springs and that’s a good thing, as long as there is no obvious winner. Equal flexibility is the undeniable harmony requirement in this complex relationship. The spring material itself is only one piece of the equation in measuring performance, and how effective opposite action/reaction will or will not accrue, and with the front spring as our target topic…

Let’s start with the gauge or thickness of the material. It’s your choice; keeping in mind that most of our industry uses springs gauged between 16g and 22g. In this discussion let’s use the word action to describe the downward movement of the armature bar, and reaction to describe the upward movement of the armature bar.

With the machine in the off or neutral position, the contact points closed, (when set up properly), the rear spring should hold an equal force of potential energy against the front spring, (”equal opposition”) note: this balance is near impossible to manage if you opt to use two different gauged spring materials on the same machine. Most of you have at one time or the other seen a spring tension measuring device. This gadget is very helpful, not only measuring material stiffness, but also a must when duplicating your desired set-up. For instance, to build yourself a back-up machine…. plan (b); always have plan (b).

Now, even before any electrical energy is introduced, there are forces already at play. Gravity, one, and front spring positive potential energy, being two, and rear spring negative potential energy. That’s three. Let’s not forget needle to tip drag and a pinch of rubber band influence. The tightness and angle of the bands can add or subtract drag as well as effect “action/reaction“ of the springs. If the rubber bands are too tight this will enhance drag. If the bands ride low on the needle bar and high on the frame in the rear, the result can be measured as potential energy that will assist both “action/reaction” buy slightly loading the front spring, while at the same time adding reaction potential energy that will enhance the straight of this accumulating energy, the instance the cycle ends. During contact the rubber bands upward pull adds kinetic inertia. The results of this added force helps to build additional front spring whip. Now this is one of those personal special effects thingies that may or may not be your cup-o-tea; ya know? Give it a shot, “what da hell”. I think you’ll find that varying rubber band positioning and tightness will dramatically alter the characteristics of the machines hit, as well as the speed. The front spring is so temperamental and is effected in so many ways; it sometimes is difficult to stay focused.

By sheer accident, oh twenty some odd years ago, one of my rubber bands on the machine found itself lodge between the front spring and the armature bar during a tattoo and the machine sounded different. The tighter I made it the better it ran. Many of you today use an o-ring in its place on your machines. At the time, I never stopped to think what this modification really was doing. These days, I analyze everything to death. Can’t help it…. It matters not where you affix the other end (under the back of the armature bar or over the front spring mounting screw), as long as it’s in one of these two locations ”only”. Selecting the proper o-ring is very important; of course the length is determined as to the placement, but the girth is the deciding factor in overall performance.

Remember, this o-ring serves three purposes. The first is to quiet the return ringing noise the front spring gives off as it flutters between each stroke. Second, it provides a soft and elastic energy to the mix. Lastly it moves the front spring’s fulcrum, increasing front spring potential energy and the speed in which this energy is released. You’ll notice this o-ring addition will require a needed increase in voltage/ power to the machine. But, keep in mind that you have added a new form of bounce. At this time you may chose to back the contact screw off a “tat”. If not, the on time vs. the off time of the machine will be out of sync. This will cause added heat, too much of that and you may need to use the sink.